So here I am, back in Delhi, my home away from home. When I first got here after leaving the village, Raju (their help) came into my room in the morning and looked at me with concern, asking, "Sick?" Well I did have a cold but was surprised that it showed so much. Then he motioned to my face to indicate that it was thinner. "Oh! I lost weight Raju," I said, thinking this was a good thing. "Hmmm," he said disapprovingly, and left my room. Later he expressed concern to Ankur that I was too skinny, and since then he's been bringing me sweets and giving me extra servings of food even when I say no thank you. Bless him. I'll miss the appreciation they have for round people here. I got on the scale today to find out I've lost about 10 pounds since getting to India. This is a side effect of a mixture of things: being pretty bad at cooking Indian food, having a limited selection of groceries to buy, not having a fridge (which means no cheese, butter, and limited milk), and just a generally healthier culture. I've also rarely eaten meat since India is a vegetarian's paradise. Don't get me wrong, there are some overweight people since access to deep fried everything is by no means limited, but more commonly they are just pleasantly plump. But I've gotten used to eating healthier- less carbs, cheese, and butter. I've learned to make do with vegetables and grains I'm not used to and I'm pretty grateful for that. Once Olivia arrived, she taught me some creative combinations of certain foods and I really hope to continue with this kind of mentality when I get home.
Another positive I've noticed is a distinct change in my approach to challenges. This realization came upon me on a day close to my departure from the village. A cheap purse I bought when I first got here got a rip along the seam of the handle. I sat down and started sewing it (something I quickly found out I'm really bad at) back together. I think the last time I sewed was in brownies when I was 6... it's been a while. It was a painstaking, oddly frustrating process with pretty shoddy results but I did it. That's when I realized I've changed. If I'd been at home, I would've just tossed it, disregarding it as cheap and easily replaceable. But I think I subconsciously learned the "waste not want not" mentality while being in Janauri. Also, I was isolated, didn't know the language, and my work was challenging and often draining every day (often due to LACK of activity). There were so many times when I wanted to give up and go home, but the only option I had was to go to bed, and get up in the morning and try again. And as the moment of departure grew nearer I discovered that I had more perseverance in some of the things I did and more appreciation for the few things I had with me. I really don't think I could've done it without the loving, supportive phone calls from home. I also rediscovered the value of prayer. Though I have mixed feelings about the religion I was raised on and am still figuring what exactly my path to God is, basic prayer was something I found myself doing more and more. I found it interesting that that minor experience of sewing a purse revealed all of that to me. It really is the little things. If nothing else this trip has shown me how adaptable we really are when we're faced with something which we can't easily run away from. I'm intensely grateful for this lesson.
Now I'll tell you about Diwali, the festival of lights. The lighting of candles (and in modern times it includes decorating your house with electric lights and setting off fireworks) signifies the triumph of good over evil. More specifically, it celebrates the return of one of their gods, Lord Ram, from his 14 year exile and his vanquishing of a major demon. This eradication of the demon basically freed the people from evil. I participated in a couple of Pujas (which is basically a prayer where you request something from the Gods) and it was a really cool thing to be a part of. It starts by setting up a kind of alter with the goddess Lakshmi (the goddess of wealth) and Ganesh (the elephant God of prosperity or luck). During Diwali people pray for prosperity in the coming year. Side note: I found out that gambling is very auspicious during this time, and the more you lose, the luckier you'll be in monetary areas of life in the next year- so there are a lot of card parties during this week. Anyway, after setting up the alter you drape the the statues with flowers, particularly marigolds, and set up offerings (in the ones I was present for it was fruit and sweets- Ganesh has a favorite sweet that he likes to be offered :). Then we get the cermonial red dot between the eyes on the forehead. Then the puja really begins- candles and incense are lit and one candle in particular is set on a tray that you move in a circle while everyone sings particular prayers and ring bells. I believe the bells are meant to draw the gods to your prayers- it alerts them that the Puja is taking place. I was told to make a wish for the next year and throw flowers on the statues. I also took a turn with moving the tray with the candle on it in a circle. At the end everyone stands in front of that same candle and in one smooth motion gathers the smoke in their hands and washes it over their heads. It kind of looks like what you do when you're washing your face in the morning. After that candles are set in all of the corners of the house for purification. THEN, the fun begins. Or for me it was really more that the terror began. Remember the fireworks that almost hit us in Amristar? Ok well now multiply that by ten and add my nervousness from it. By midnight Delhi was a fog of smoke. EVERYONE is setting of fireworks and crackers. I ended up getting used to it after a couple of hours and was forced to set off a few myself. But I'm not gonna lie, I found every excuse to hide inside while this was going on.
So that's Diwali!
One more week! I go to the Taj Mahal tomorrow- maybe I'll run into Obama!
Saturday, November 6, 2010
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Goa
Well I finished up my internship last week. It was a strange feeling. As soon as I got on the bus in Janauri with all of my bags, I looked out the window at the EduCARE office and suddenly felt alone. Without realizing it I’d developed a home there- a network of people I could ask for help when I needed it and some actual friends. By the time I got to the train station in Chandigarh (the nearest big city- about 5 hours from my village), Janauri almost seemed like a dream that I had once. All the sudden, only five hours later, it felt less familiar. I don’t know exactly what caused that. Maybe it’s just what happens mentally when you know you’re leaving a place for the last time. I think I’ll come back to India, but I seriously doubt I’ll make it out to the village again. A bittersweet ending- I'm looking forward to being home, but I'll miss the simplicity of life out there.
I’ve now transferred to the mindset of a traveler. I mean, I was a traveler the whole time but with Janauri always waiting for me I felt a little more grounded in the country. I’m currently in Goa- the most popular beach state. I’ve seen more foreigners here than anywhere else I’ve been and quite a few westerners who’ve settled in the area. At first, the idea of traveling alone really depressed me since I’m a naturally social person, but after the first couple I got used to and am now really starting to enjoy doing exactly what I want, when I want. The beach where I'm staying, Baga, is crowded but during the mornings it’s a pleasant place to be. In this area there are very few houses on the beach- beach front property is primarily owned by restaurants. There are countless rambling little beach shacks that set up lounge chairs and umbrellas and your payment for using them is ordering food or about a fifty cents an hour. It’s also more expensive to travel here than it was when I traveled in the north. The food and taxis are about twice the price. While still cheaper than taxis and food in the U.S., I’d arranged my budget based on prices I’d paid earlier in the trip, so I’ve gone over budget- sometimes when I try to bargain I'm basing it on northern prices and the drivers tell me I've lost my mind. My real splurge was my hotel. I’m staying in a really cute boutique hotel and my room has a gorgeous four poster bed- complete with mosquito nets and a towering, intricately carved foot board. I also have a balcony and the bathroom has beautiful mosaic walls.
Yesterday I went to Old Goa. I went on Navin’s insistence- I didn’t really want to go that much but once I got there I was glad he pushed me. My inner history nerd got really excited to see the place on the river where Vasco De Gama landed and set up camp when he first came to India- I guess it was the same place Columbus was trying to reach. In that same area sits the largest cathedral in Asia, a really cool little 500 year old chapel- the first church in the area, and another cathedral which houses St. Xavier’s remains. What struck me the most about Old Goa was how beautifully landscaped it was. The gardens were gorgeous- it explained why Old Goa was once referred to as the Paris of the east.
Today was my favorite day though. I went to the largest, most interesting flea market I’ve ever been to. Beautiful hand crafted bed covers, clothes, and rugs made it a cornucopia of colors and patterns while the various handicrafts kept me busy perusing for hours. I chose 4 different bags of incredible smelling tea leaves- mango, chocolate, Indian black, and Jasmin- I can’t wait to try them when I get home. But maybe the most impressive part was where it was situated- it was on one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen- Anjuna beach. I really regretted not staying here- it was only about 4 miles away from Baga (my beach) and five times more beautiful and peaceful. After completing my shopping I sat on the beach and had a pina colada. I don’t think I could’ve been more peaceful.
To finish I’ll make a list of firsts I’ve experienced on this trip to Goa
1.First time riding side saddle on a motorcyle (no helmet of course)- I’d been really nervous to try this but it ended up being way easier than I thought
2.First elephant sighting! Very exciting
3.First time I've taken a walk on the beach with a cow. We watched the sunset together- it was beautiful.
4.First time someone tried to sell me a karma sutra book. I was very amused.
5.Best haggling I’ve done on the entire trip.
6.Tried Goan food- DELICIOUS. I had Chicken Cafreal- chicken with a green masala curry served with green rice. I plan on eating another Goan specialty
Back to Delhi tomorrow to celebrate Diwali (I promise to write about that), the I go on a day trip to the Taj Mahal, a few days in Jaipur, and then I come home!
I’ve now transferred to the mindset of a traveler. I mean, I was a traveler the whole time but with Janauri always waiting for me I felt a little more grounded in the country. I’m currently in Goa- the most popular beach state. I’ve seen more foreigners here than anywhere else I’ve been and quite a few westerners who’ve settled in the area. At first, the idea of traveling alone really depressed me since I’m a naturally social person, but after the first couple I got used to and am now really starting to enjoy doing exactly what I want, when I want. The beach where I'm staying, Baga, is crowded but during the mornings it’s a pleasant place to be. In this area there are very few houses on the beach- beach front property is primarily owned by restaurants. There are countless rambling little beach shacks that set up lounge chairs and umbrellas and your payment for using them is ordering food or about a fifty cents an hour. It’s also more expensive to travel here than it was when I traveled in the north. The food and taxis are about twice the price. While still cheaper than taxis and food in the U.S., I’d arranged my budget based on prices I’d paid earlier in the trip, so I’ve gone over budget- sometimes when I try to bargain I'm basing it on northern prices and the drivers tell me I've lost my mind. My real splurge was my hotel. I’m staying in a really cute boutique hotel and my room has a gorgeous four poster bed- complete with mosquito nets and a towering, intricately carved foot board. I also have a balcony and the bathroom has beautiful mosaic walls.
Yesterday I went to Old Goa. I went on Navin’s insistence- I didn’t really want to go that much but once I got there I was glad he pushed me. My inner history nerd got really excited to see the place on the river where Vasco De Gama landed and set up camp when he first came to India- I guess it was the same place Columbus was trying to reach. In that same area sits the largest cathedral in Asia, a really cool little 500 year old chapel- the first church in the area, and another cathedral which houses St. Xavier’s remains. What struck me the most about Old Goa was how beautifully landscaped it was. The gardens were gorgeous- it explained why Old Goa was once referred to as the Paris of the east.
Today was my favorite day though. I went to the largest, most interesting flea market I’ve ever been to. Beautiful hand crafted bed covers, clothes, and rugs made it a cornucopia of colors and patterns while the various handicrafts kept me busy perusing for hours. I chose 4 different bags of incredible smelling tea leaves- mango, chocolate, Indian black, and Jasmin- I can’t wait to try them when I get home. But maybe the most impressive part was where it was situated- it was on one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen- Anjuna beach. I really regretted not staying here- it was only about 4 miles away from Baga (my beach) and five times more beautiful and peaceful. After completing my shopping I sat on the beach and had a pina colada. I don’t think I could’ve been more peaceful.
To finish I’ll make a list of firsts I’ve experienced on this trip to Goa
1.First time riding side saddle on a motorcyle (no helmet of course)- I’d been really nervous to try this but it ended up being way easier than I thought
2.First elephant sighting! Very exciting
3.First time I've taken a walk on the beach with a cow. We watched the sunset together- it was beautiful.
4.First time someone tried to sell me a karma sutra book. I was very amused.
5.Best haggling I’ve done on the entire trip.
6.Tried Goan food- DELICIOUS. I had Chicken Cafreal- chicken with a green masala curry served with green rice. I plan on eating another Goan specialty
Back to Delhi tomorrow to celebrate Diwali (I promise to write about that), the I go on a day trip to the Taj Mahal, a few days in Jaipur, and then I come home!
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